I should have practiced my French. Most seem fluent in both French and Malagasy, and some can get by in English too. Knowing only one language feels lame.
Our driver, Njaka, was mighty communicative not just in English, but in honking the horn–that sound is the backdrop to our travels. Straight from a movie chase scene, he aggressively and adroitly passed trucks, cars, zebu herders, chickens (which he did jokingly call ‘loaka’ or dinner), bicyclists, walkers, pous-pous (like a rickshaw), pigs, and children. From the horn of his Hyundai, he could warn walkers to move aside, give a nod to fellow drivers, win a power struggle with slower vehicles, greet a car as we went by, or thank a taxi-brouss that gave him room. Gentler honks warned walkers as he navigated curving roads and blind corners. A spectrum of beeps seems to be part of driving here. It was an amazingly effective mode of steady communication.
One of our favorite memories will be the smiles lighting up Malagasy faces when Erika replied in their language; it is a joy to see and hear a conversation take off. Their delight was often followed by the question, “Peace Corps?” To be understood, even by someone who speaks the same language, is what we desire, what we need. What a gift when someone ‘gets’ me. I probably embarrassed Erika with one bit of charades, trying to find her choir concert. But it paid off and led to a conversation of sorts, with gestures, smiles, and awful French.
I don’t know how to say, “Smile” in Malagasy, but some things transcend language. 🙂