Quote of the day

“In a cows vs pilgrims showdown, the cows win.” Erika, as we jump to a spot between the barbed wire and the path when a herd of cattle passes by. 

A hot, dehydrating day on Le Chemin today, with the hoped for water break turning into a mirage – “Ferme” (closed). I have rarely been more excited than when we reached Aumont Aubrac and ordered both water and Orangina! And what the heck, a Magnum ice cream bar too.

Last night’s and tonight’s stays – wow. When our first choice place was full, we tried a new gite (pronounced jeet – a cross between a hostel and a b and b, specifically ready for hikers) only open 3 weeks. Antre Nous. Michael and Gladys are a kind and interesting couple, who gave Erika their #s in case she needs help while in France :). He is a phy ed teacher, she a snail agriculturist (or something like that. So hard to tell in French. Something about raising mellower tasting snails and selling them in December, for Christmas. They had an antique wooden canoe on the wall, from Ontario, have a daughter named Denali (a climbing destination for their family), similar beliefs about all aspects of the education system, and some dogsledding background and interest in Ely, when they learned we were from Minnesota. I could go on, but we should rest.

The dinners served in the gites are the way to go and are Far better than the small town restaurants we have tried. Tonight’s host made an incredible dinner, including these mashed potatoes, blended with the largest block of regional cheese I have ever seen. Jon, the bar has been raised for Thanksgiving!! 

  

Trail friends

As Erika and I struggled yet again to find dinner (restaurants don’t seem to serve until at least 7), realizing we should have taken the option of dinner from our kind host Gladys (the youngest, hippest Gladys I have ever met) we bumped into 4 fellow pilgrims, whom we met at last night’s marvelously hospitable gite d’etap. The man from Holland, another occasional trail friend, also found this spot. The common journey makes us friends, even if the language challenges us. Grateful for these people!

 

Ultreia ~ further

What a day! We enjoyed such a lovely stay at a gite in Saugues, run it appeared by a mother and daughter. Six beds reached by a narrow, wooden staircase with lavender hung from the ceiling. Our lack of French meant we missed most of the dinner conversation, which sounded interesting! After a stop at the small market, and a most challenging adventure in search of a public toilet, (new appreciation for some things American!!) we started walking. Today’s path was much easier on the feet, and a nice mix of rural area and forest. Shade is our friend. We had a pine-scented pic-nique and always enjoy taking the packs off for a bit. 

We opted for a shorter day, and were considering a gite in La Villeret . . . As we approached, we saw a guitar on the sign and a couple from Sedona waiting outside. English! The things we take for granted. This place is so wonderful. Kind hosts, incredible meal, gracious fellow pelerin (pilgrims), a washing machine :), and our own room, Even though we have to walk through a couple’s chambre to get to ours. Aperitifs were served before dinner (croissant-wrapped hot dogs – the only odd part of a fantastic meal) and our host taught us a pilgrim song and regaled us (really) with the tale of the word Ultreia, and the phrases ‘e sus eia’ and ‘deus ad juvanos’ after dinner. 

We enjoyed meeting the Weavers, both retired law enforcement, who gave Erika their contact info, in case she needs anything in the next few weeks.

We are getting into the rhythm of this trek, and it is good.

Travelling light

Today began sunny and cool, as we walked to the Notre Dame cathedral where they have a 7 am mass followed by a blessing for the pilgrims. I could hardly understand the round of introductions–many of the hikers appear to be French, with one from Holland, and another from Quebec.  It was a lovely send-off.  

Our overnight host offered a plentiful French breakfast on her deck, so we returned for that, departing later than we planned. Chatted as well as we good with two other fascinating guests–a Korean-born Canadian researching medieval history, and a retiring German optician, taking a day’s walking break.

Erika and I hiked over 23 kilometers today, and we have tired feet, legs, and shoulders to prove it. Sunny and hot, but not unbearably so, we saw all sorts of views – rural, forest, gravel path, paved walkways, rocky & hilly climbs. Shade always felt good! 

We came around one bend this morning to three cows; as we debated going around them, we discovered they basically responded as if we were herding them, so off we – and our cattle – went. Just as that got old, what seemed almost like a mirage appeared. A small tropical grass-decorated trailer serving cold drinks at shaded bright umbella tables was a perfectly timed rest. Quenched my thirst with Orangina. Another orangina later, with a baguette with frommage, was another needed rest stop.

Late now. Possibly another long hike tomorrow. Bon soire, I think 😉